Gulmarg, in Indian Kashmir, is a perfect winter sports destination - except few people know about it and even fewer people come. I went there in the winters of 2004 and 2005 to test some new kinds of inflatable sleds. Imagine sledding down a Himalayan peak coated in virgin powder, going 50km/h with your face just inches above the frozen sea of snow. Exhilarating? Yes. Scary? Yes. The perfect extreme snow sports getaway minus the crowds? Definitely!