Horseplay in the Australian Wild

but Erik Fearn says it’s worth the pain in the butt

If you think all of rural Australia is the scorched outback, think again. The lush, temperate plateaus of Northern Queensland have become the outdoor lover’s playgrounds of the 00s.

No, you won’t find any beaches, big hotels or wall-to-wall people. Just as well. The beauty of this eucalyptus clad, softly undulating hills lies in their unspoilt serenity. And what better way to explore this rugged nature than on horseback?

Just over 100 years ago, this hitherto unexplored region suddenly drew gold prospectors by the thousands. Shantytowns like Atherton and Port Douglas sprung up overnight, instantly ripe with lawlessness and squalor.

Those very few lucky men who made their fortunes from the gold quickly realized the region’s potential for cattle ranching. The land was vast, suitable and virtually free, and with the appearance of civilization (well, sort of), they had ready markets.

These days, the gold prospectors are long gone, and Atherton has become a quaint, clean country town. But the vast ranches of old, or ‘stations’ as they are called here, still dominate the landscape and the lifestyle.

Wetherby Station is one such place. About 8 km down a dusty dirt track from the nearest road, the scene at Wetherby is one of hardworking ‘jackaroos’ (cowboys) and jillaroos’ (cowgirls) tending to their tasks of herding, corralling, and feeding the cattle- but with a big difference. None of these ‘cowhands’ are professionals, or even locals!

In recent years, these old-fashioned Australian cattle stations have become receptive to equestrian-cum-tourists’ interest in playing an active role in this rustic, rugged way of life.

So now, for about RM1000 per week, you too can join a cattle drive, maybe even an impromptu rodeo, earning nothing but blisters, a sunburned neck, and an aching body in return. Even so, well-heeled horse enthusiasts are coming here in droves.

Sally Noonan, the manageress of Wetherby Station, explains: “The difference between Wetherby and an ordinary ‘dude ranch’ is that we don’t put on a show for anyone.

What you see is what you get. Every visitor is given a quarter horse, is briefed on his or her daily duties, and works under the supervision of our four permanent team leaders. Yep, this is the real thing!”