Desert Diving in Oman

Somewhere below us in the cobalt-blue deep lies a huge wreck – the 83m S.N.V. Munnassir, one of the biggest in the Arabian Peninsula – but for the moment, no one is interested in diving. Our dive group, all 12 of us, is experiencing ‘dolphin distraction’. Not one or two, but some 200 dolphins are churning up the deep blue sea all around us, following a flotilla of sardine fishermen out of Muscat’s harbour, in the hope of easy pickings.

As the last of the dolphins skips past, our group back-rolls, two by two, into the Indian Ocean to explore the other side of the watery looking glass - a shimmery world of steep coral canyons and razor-edged defiles, fabulously colourful and teeming with fish of incredible variety and size.

Welcome to scuba diving in Oman, the new darling destination of divers everywhere. With hundreds of kms of virgin coastline reefs yet to be explored, the waters off Oman are quickly gaining a reputation of being a seductive blend of excellent diving and world-class onshore facilities.

The hundreds of coves and islets that skirt the coastline are considered to be an example of bio-diversity at its best by discerning divers, who regularly compare it to the way today’s overcrowded Red Sea dive scene was 30 years ago.

Until now, there are only a handful of small ‘boutique’ dive operators in and around Muscat, which mostly provide a high, comfortable standard of service, that cater to visiting divers eager to try something new.

But diving in Oman is also quickly gaining a local following. Interest and participation in scuba diving has been on the increase. Now, "family friendly" services are becoming quite widespread, with special services like family dive packages, suitable dive sites for youngsters, and other recreational pastimes now available for the whole family. This is especially timely, considering the recent introduction of PADI's 'Bubble Maker' programme, which allows youngsters down to the age of 8 to enjoy scuba in pools.

The Oman Dive Centre, conveniently located just 20 minutes from downtown Muscat, is one such dive centre which offers diving for all levels as well as scuba instruction for the curious but uninitiated. What makes it one of the best dive operators in Oman – apart from being rated a PADI Five Star Dive Centre – is the wealth of dive sites it offers.

Dotted among the many rocky coves that are formed by the steep cliffs on either side of the ODC are 20 established sites with intriguing names like Wall Street, Coral Garden, Purple Haze, Turtle City and, of course, the massive hulk of the S.N.V. Munnassir.

Normally, three dives are offered per day – two in the morning and one in the afternoon. The boat ride out to the sites takes anything from 5-30 minutes. Equipment rentals and pre-dive briefings are done efficiently beforehand. And then it’s off to explore this breathtaking underwater world!

Exciting diving

Oman sits on the edge of some of the world’s deepest ocean waters. From the craggy, sunburned desert mountains guarding Oman’s south-eastern shores, the ocean drops, sometimes steeply, into the dark-blue Indian Ocean, warmed year-round by southerly currents. This occasionally causes plankton bloom to rise from the cold depths and reduces visibility somewhat (down from 25m to 10m).

On the positive side, this plankton bloom attracts a wealth of pelagic visitors who feed on it, transforming reefs otherwise inhabited with a range of colourful, but small, reef creatures into exciting, high action dives featuring, amongst others, whale sharks, manta and devil rays, great barracuda, tunas, pilot whales and a variety of sharks.

On my first dive, for example, a huge school of 20 Devil Rays swam in formation over me, being silhouetted by shafts of sunlight. Moments like these offer you a glimmer of the sublime…

As often as not, the water is astoundingly clear and aquamarine, like swimming in a giant aquarium - which, of course, it is.

Perhaps the biggest jewel for many divers is Wall Street, the ODC’s house reef. As the name implies, this site features a drop-off wall that features, well, everything. As soon as divers jump in, they discover huge reef walls and dramatic ridges ostentatiously displaying Mother Nature's abundance. Expansive soft coral gardens stretch out like vast fields of undersea wildflowers that provide habitats for myriad marine creatures.

As if on cue, the players gather for a gala performance. White tip reef sharks patrol the floor while majestic rays swim overhead. Big, intimidating-looking, but harmless Spotted Moray eels wriggle out of their coral cubby-holes for a closer look at us land invaders. Everywhere there are stone and coral outcroppings at crazy angles making it feel as if we are gliding through some bizarre Dali-esque painting. Exotic and exquisite? Exactly.

Dream it. Plan it. Do it.

Pristine reefs in an unspoilt location are still the order of the day along Oman’s coast. It’s really little wonder that Oman is quickly becoming the hub for a new generation of discerning divers. It’s all out there, waiting for divers with a yearning for something untouched and new to come and explore.

I have the feeling the best stories out here are yet to be told.

When to go:

Different seasons bring different attractions. The waters are cooler during the ‘winter’, but the visibility is variable throughout the year with certain months being clearer than others. For more info to decide when to go, contact the dive operators listed below.

How much:

Prices for diving are roughly the same among the competing operators. A two-dive day out with full service, tank and equipment hire is RO26 or US$69, less if you bring your own equipment.

Dive contacts:

Oman Dive Center
Tel: +(968) 934 00 96
Fax: +(968) 931 05 12
Email: diveoman@omantel.net.om
Website: www.diveoman.com.om

Blu Zone Watersports at Marina Bander al-Rowdha.
Tel/ Fax: +(968) 737293
Email: bluzone@omantel.net.om
Website: www.bluzonediving.com

Side Trips for Divers and Non-Divers Alike:

For those days when you need a break from diving, turn your back on the cool blue sea and head for the hot, parched interior. There are many day trip possibilities from all the dive resorts that don’t require too much advanced planning.

For a short half-day trip, head for the souk at Muttrah. You may not find a genie in a magic lamp, but the gold still glitters in the souks which are excellent for value and extremely popular with foreigners. Bedouin carpets are a great bargain. Antique jewellery and silver ornamental daggers are easily found. Haggling is expected and welcome.

But if you’re hungry for some safe adventure and are ready for some once-in-a-lifetime experiences, contact the affable Rob Gardner and his Omani crew at Muscat Diving & Adventure Center.

These top-notch adventure specialists offer a diverse range of land and sea-based activities that range from a highly informative city tour to dolphin-watching to an exciting trip out into the desert.

With over 6 years’ experience, the MDAC is far and away the best-established adventure operator in Oman. This One Stop Shop offers family-friendly 'Experiences' for memorable holidays that just happen to also be good value for money.

The dolphin-watching tour, for example, is 3 hours long, costs OR20, and it's half-price for kids. Speedboat and refreshments are included. And the captain has some amazing and informative stories to share.

A very popular option is The Wadi/Desert Experience which is a whole day trip, costs OR30, and takes in rolling desert sand dunes straight out of Lawrence of Arabia (a delicious lunch included). Then, in the afternoon, cool yourself off with a refreshing swim in a wadi, or oasis. The trips often include little detours where few outsiders have ever been.

My trips with Muscat Diving & Adventure Center were a reminder that oftentimes, the least visited places provide the most interesting experiences.

Oman is one of those enchanting places where the more you see of it, the bigger it becomes.

Contact:

Muscat Diving & Adventure Center
Tel: 00968-685663
Fax: 00968-685774
Email: info@holiday-in-oman.com
Website: www.holiday-in-oman.com

Tourism in Oman is growing at a steady and careful pace, and there are some exceptional hotels coming up to cater to this growth. Two of the most notable are the Oman Sheraton Hotel and the fabulous Chedi.

The Sheraton is notable both for being the most centrally located 5-star hotel in greater Muscat (located in the business district of Ruwi), and for being the tallest building in the entire country. The Sheraton is literally just minutes from shopping malls, dive sites, the Corniche harbour, and the Muttrah souk.

For an exceptional beachside resort experience, few would disagree that The Chedi sets the standard in design, cuisine and service, with a price to match. The Chedi was recently ranked among the top resorts in the world by none other than Conde Nast, and although the resort does not have the benefit of a central location, it does have one of the finest beaches in Oman right at its doorstep.

For more info:

Oman Sheraton Hotel
Tel: (968) (24) 799899 
Fax: (968) (24) 795791
Email: Reservations.Muscat.Oman@sheraton.com
Rooms average OR36 per night.

The Chedi
Tel: (968) 24 52 44 00
Fax: (968) 24 49 34 85
Email: chedimuscat@ghmhotels.com
Rooms average OR85 per night.