Malaysia’s Hands-on Rock-climbing Scene
To you and me, ‘walls’ and ‘cliffs’ are things best not walked into or fallen off. But to a swelling mass of young Malaysian adrenaline freaks, these monoliths - -whether natural or artificial - have become the new vertical playground on which to strut their ???. Their passion is rock-climbing – an apparently addictive sport that has only one tireless opponent: gravity.
If you think today’s rock climbers are lone hardcore athletes in spandex risking life and limb to spend a few hours staring at a cliff wall two inches away, you’re way off.
Often referred to as a ‘crawl the wall’ session, rock climbing earns its local following by being equally tough on men and women, who can be seen ‘loitering’ around Batu Caves on weekends looking for the ultimate ‘face’; the steeper and rougher, the better.
The area around Kuala Lumpur, known as the Klang Valley, has some well-developed climbing hot spots. The biggest of these is the formidable Batu Caves, located on the northern edge of KL.
Many of the sheer walls along this monolithic hill were created by quarry operations in the past. Rain, too, has devoured the insides of this craggy limestone plug, forming the caves that give the hill its name.
The largest of these houses a sacred, old Hindu temple. Every year, the Hindu festival of Thaipusam, which celebrates light and purification, draws over a million tourists and devotees to the foot of the stairs leading to the cave temple. But for the rest of the year, Batu Caves is a playground for local climbers.
Most of the climbs around the hill are no more than 5 minutes apart, with roads leading right to the foot of the wall, in most cases.
Two of the best-known sites are Nyamuk and Damai (also known as Cave Rock). These recently developed climbing areas are now, thanks to the support of City Hall, Malaysia’s premier climbing sites – clean, safe, bolted, with easy access and public facilities nearby.
The routes at Damai are, by far, the most beginner-friendly - lots of jagged edges and handholds on some easy 5c routes. More experienced climbers can find their match on the multi-pitch routes, with grades from 5c+ to 6c. To date, more than 30 routes have been established. Among the most popular of these are the Monkey Highway, Lightning Grip, Monsoon, and the ominously named Bad News.
Damai (which means ‘Peace’ in Malay) is arguably the most accessible outdoor climbing area in the Klang Valley - just 15-minutes’ drive from the city.
The routes at Damai look quite crumbly at first glance. However, the loose and wobbly rubble has mostly been peeled off by climbers over the years (which could either be good news or bad news, depending on how you look at it). The vegetation on the rock face is slowly growing back despite a good clean-up a year ago during its development. But that’s fine, too, as the tree roots and trunks can be part of a climb if they are in the way…
The variety of climbs at Batu Caves is impressive. Ranging from easy 5c's to enduring 6c's, there’s always a challenge waiting for each climber. The routes are about 20 to 25 metres on average, and multi-pitch routes are a real enticement for those who want to get a good view of KL.
One of the more interesting things at Damai, though, is the people who come here. They are often as interesting as the climbs themselves. Many climbers from neighbouring countries like Singapore and Thailand do a pit-stop in Kuala Lumpur, and by word of mouth, via a website or with a guide, find Damai to be an absolute joy. Even the local climbers come back time and again to do the pleasurable routes.
However, if you prefer suffering arm-burn over the pleasure of notching up ‘easy’ routes, look no further than Nyamuk. Nyamuk (which, rather disconcertingly, means ‘mosquito’ in Malay) brings masochists out of the closet with some of the longest routes in Malaysia to be found here. Thirty metre multi-pitch routes are not uncommon, with a couple of overhangs thrown in just to keep you off your toes.
So now you’re all set to tackle the greatest adrenaline rush this side of ???. Judging by the steep rise of local interest in rockclimbing, there must be a lot of Spiderman wannabees out there. Don’t let the crazed looks in their eyes scare you away.
It’s more than a challenge. It’s a calling. We understand.
Fact File:
For more info on the local climbing scene, check out:
therockpod.com and adventure-x-change.com
Directions: Batu Caves is just 15 minutes’ drive north of downtown KL. Major highways go there. For more detailed directions, check the websites above.
Cost: access is free.
Free advice: Start early to beat the heat and the possible afternoon tropical downpours.
Indoor Climbing: If Natural rock climbing isn’t your thing, then there is a world-class indoor set-up available, as well. The Summit Climbing Gym is Malaysia’s first indoor rock climbing facility. Set up in a shopping mall, it provides all the facilities you'll ever need - interesting routes, gear for hire and sale, a roof over your head, long opening hours, toilets - even food outlets if you’ve got the munchies!
Instruction is given with a fee of RM10. Patrons are required to take the belay test on the first three visits.
The nice folks at Summit can also arrange for instruction and organised trips to outdoor climbing sites – such as Batu Caves.
For specific info on the Summit Climbing Gym, go to:
www.nomadadventure.com
Tel: 603 8024 5152
Fax: 603 8024 1710
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