Jakarta - A City of Surprises

When people think of a glitzy, modern ASEAN capital, Jakarta doesn't normally spring to mind. And rightly so. On the surface, it's a congested, chaotic megalopolis without any obvious attractions. But glance beneath the scruffy veneer and it won't take long to find the very attractions that have made Jakarta such a popular weekend getaway for Malaysians and Singaporeans over the past 5 years or so.

Golf, shopping, food, nightlife, history, nature and cool mountain retreats - it's all here. Surprised? So was I.

For starters, try to go in a small group of friends or family. The best way to get around is by hiring a cheap, air-conditioned, chauffeur-driven van to explore Jakarta and beyond. As a group, you can share this cost, plus it's more fun that way.

After the 1.5 hour flight, you take a 30-minute ride on a new highway right into the heart of the Golden Triangle of the city. From here, everything is within easy reach via the many ring roads that pass through the city. The Golden triangle boasts dozens of inexpensive 5-star hotels, thanks to a favourable exchange rate and a glut of hotels (a legacy of the booming 90's).

And, rather conveniently, some of the best value shopping centres in all of Asia are either attached to your hotel, or are a very short ride away.

Into antiques? Head to nearby Jl. Surabaya. The entire street is an open-air market specialising in interesting fake and real antiques, souvenirs and handicrafts from several cultures throughout the archipelago. If you think you have good bargaining skills, you'll certainly have to put them to the test here!

A short drive north of the Golden Triangle brings you to the interesting old port of Sunda Kelapa. As if you’ve just passed through a portal back in time, old wooden schooners called 'pinisi' arrive and depart from here for far-flung ports throughout the archipelago, trading in cement, building wood and fertiliser - the raw materials of a fast-growing country. The scene is stuck in a 17th-century time warp, with the 60 or so colourful mast-ships being loaded and unloaded by hand. The spectacle is free, photogenic, and rarely features in any brochures of the city...

Don't have time to explore the astonishing cultural diversity of the vast Indonesian archipelago? Just outside of Jakarta's city limits lies Taman Mini. This huge 'cultural park' contains 27 traditional houses representing the main cultures within Indonesia. In particular, have a wander around the Minangkabau, Balinese and Toraja houses, all hand-built by indigenous craftsmen. Tours are available, but beauty needs no explanation.

If you have the time, the IMAX movie 'Indonesia Indah' is extremely worthwhile. The film takes you on an extraordinarily beautiful 40-minute tour of Indonesia. The cost is a mere RM4!

As you head back to your hotel at the end of a full day, that time of day when one begins to think about the convivial possibilities of food and drink is fast approaching...

Above all else, Jakarta IS Funky Town. Just as lively but not as overtly seedy as Bangkok, Jakarta boasts some of the most happening clubbing and live music scenes in the region. The whirlwind of nightlife starts at any of the hundreds of bars and restaurants across town and usually ends up at legendary nightspots like the Tanamur or the multi-story Party Central of 1001 Nights.

But if 24 hours in Jakarta, with all its chaotic charm, leaves you yearning for a peaceful retreat, it's time to head 40 minutes south on the superhighway to the charming hill-town of Bogor. Also known as Kota Bunga, Bogor is home to the Southern hemisphere's largest botanical gardens, founded more than 150 years ago by none other than Sir Stamford Raffles, a keen botanist.

As Bogor is much cooler than Jakarta, walking around the breezy park is a good option. Give yourself a couple of hours to take in the Garden's highlights. Former President Sukarno's massive summer palace lies to the south of the park, offering a good point of reference. A free map is available at the entrance.

Lying in the heart of the Sunda region of West Java, Bogor is home to some of the best Sundanese cuisine in the region. And there are plenty of up-market restaurants and down-market warungs to choose from.

If you don't know your way around a Sundanese menu, you might like to try the Ayam Geprek, a juicy fried chicken with peanuts, long beans and belacan, sweetened by a dash of kecap manis. Or perhaps the Jumping Fish, or Gurame Gareng Asam, which is a deep-fried fish smothered in lemon, brown sugar (gula jawa) and a rich herb sauce.

A glance at the map of this region reveals that Bogor is hemmed in on three sides by huge, elegantly cone-shaped volcanoes. This makes the town’s setting geographically interesting and extraordinarily beautiful. Another name for Bogor is ‘Kota Hujan’. Not that it rains all the time, but Bogor is in the Guinness Book of World Records as having the greatest number of thunderstorms per year in the world – on average 322!

Just 40 minutes from Bogor, and a little more than an hour from Jakarta, lies the popular hill-station retreat simply known as Puncak. But to be honest, it’ll take you a lot longer to get there than 40 minutes because the whole road up the side of the mountain is lined with dozens of factory outlet stores that are simply too tempting to pass up! (I’m not a shopper, but even I bulged my bags with everything from football jerseys to branded winter clothing).

At a cool 2,900m, Puncak lies along a saddle between two volcanoes, and is carpeted by tea plantations, fruit orchards and your choice of hotels – all with glorious views over the rice padi patchwork of the lowlands.

As you sit on your balcony as sunset nears, and you look out at the orange cumulus clouds above Bogor with the faint roll of thunder in the distance, there's nothing much to do except to relax and watch the unfurling scenery.

Jakarta is a perfect gateway, and contrast, to a land that has a certain seductive quality that you'll find difficult to tire of.

Travel Tips:

When to go: Any time of year is fine. Indonesia's capital city, rather ironically, lies outside of its 'haze belt' that plagues us so. If it's hazy here, chances are that it's blue skies down there.

How to go: KLM Royal Dutch Airlines has recently started a new five times per week full-service flight from KL - Jakarta. For a promotional fare of just RM421 return, you get a confirmed seat on a spacious jumbo, a warm meal, and renowned Dutch service. For more info, check out klm.com.my or call 03-2711-2300.

Getting Around: Transportation is a key consideration for enjoying Jakarta. Make all your ground arrangements before leaving Kuala Lumpur to ensure efficient airport transfers and inner city transport with the travel professionals, Indonesian Explorer, Tel: 03 2144 0009, indo@hotelxn.com

Where to Stay: Enjoy five-star luxury at the Hyatt Aryaduta,
www.jakarta.aryaduta.hyatt.com